Advice · 3 min read · Updated 6 November 2026
Gravel driveways for caravans, motorhomes and vans: what you need
Why heavier vehicles need a different build
A typical family car weighs around 1,200 to 2,000 kg. A touring caravan is often 1,000 to 2,000 kg on just two wheels plus a jockey wheel, a large motorhome is commonly up to 3,500 kg, and loaded vans can be similar. Concentrating that weight on a few tyres, and leaving it parked in one spot for months, presses deep ruts into a drive built only for cars. Corner steadies and jockey wheels apply even higher point loads.
Recommended specification
| Element | Car-only drive | Caravan, motorhome or van |
|---|---|---|
| Sub-base depth | 150 to 200 mm | 200 to 300 mm, more on soft ground |
| Gravel grid | Optional on flat ground | Strongly recommended, load-rated |
| Gravel | Angular 10 to 20 mm | Angular 10 to 20 mm, thin layer over grid |
| Edging | Standard kerb or steel | Robust, haunched in concrete |
| Standing area | Any level part | Very level pad, ideally with solid pads for steadies |
These figures are typical guidance. An installer should assess the ground before confirming the specification.
Size and layout
- Measure your vehicle including the A-frame, bike rack and mirrors
- Allow at least 1 metre either side to open doors and walk around
- Plan the turning or reversing route, including the swept path of a long trailer
- Keep the standing area as level as possible, ideally within a gentle fall for drainage
- Check the gate or entrance width and any overhanging branches or cables
- Leave room to access the habitation door and any hook-up point
Many people add solid concrete or paving pads under jacks and corner steadies, set flush with the grid, to spread the load and avoid pushing the steadies into the gravel.
Dropped kerbs and access
Long or heavy vehicles may need a wider dropped kerb than a car. Highway authorities set their own rules on width and construction, and where heavy vehicles will cross the footway they may require a reinforced crossover. Apply before any work, as driving over a full-height kerb is not allowed and can damage the pavement and the vehicle. Also check that the vehicle will not overhang the pavement when parked, as obstructing the footway can be an offence.
Covenants, planning and insurance
Planning permission is not normally needed to park a private caravan or motorhome on your own driveway, as long as it is used incidentally to the house and not lived in. However, many newer estates have restrictive covenants in the deeds that prohibit parking caravans, boats, motorhomes or commercial vehicles at the front of the property, or require them to be screened. Check your title deeds, which you can download from HM Land Registry for a small fee, and any management company rules.
Insurers often ask where a caravan or motorhome is stored. Security posts, wheel clamps and hitch locks are common requirements, and ground anchors need a solid concrete base, so plan for any fixings before the gravel goes down.
Common mistakes
- Laying a car-spec base and hoping it will cope with a motorhome
- Using rounded pea gravel that the jockey wheel ploughs straight through
- Forgetting about the swept path, so tyres keep cutting into lawns and borders
- Not leaving room for corner steadies and steps
- Building the standing area with a noticeable slope, making the vehicle hard to level
- Leaving out the threshold strip, so stones are dragged onto the pavement every trip
- Ignoring covenants, then facing a dispute with the estate management company
Most of these are easy to avoid at the design stage, but expensive to correct once the drive is built. Tell your installer exactly what you will be parking, including its weight and length, so the specification can be matched to it.
Looking after a heavy-use gravel standing
Move the vehicle occasionally to inspect the surface beneath, rake and top up the area under the wheels, and check that the grid has not lifted at the edges. Watch out for leaks: diesel, oil and grey water can contaminate the stone and the ground beneath. A drip tray under a van or motorhome that is parked for long periods is a sensible precaution, and any spill should be soaked up and the affected stone replaced promptly.
Frequently asked questions
Can I park a motorhome on a gravel driveway?
Yes, provided the drive is built for the weight. A typical motorhome is up to 3,500 kg, so the drive needs a deeper compacted sub-base, a load-rated gravel grid to prevent rutting and a level standing area. A car-only drive with loose gravel on a thin base is likely to sink under a parked motorhome over the winter.
Do I need planning permission to park a caravan on my drive?
Usually not, provided it is used for occasional leisure purposes and not lived in, and it does not obstruct the highway or sight lines. However, restrictive covenants in many property deeds, particularly on newer estates, can ban caravans or motorhomes at the front of the house. Check your title deeds and any estate management rules first. Make sure it does not block the pavement or visibility for drivers pulling out of neighbouring drives.
How deep should the sub-base be for a van or motorhome?
For heavier vehicles a compacted crushed stone sub-base of around 200 to 300 mm is typical, laid in layers and compacted thoroughly, with more on soft or clay ground. Combining this with a load-rated gravel grid spreads the load and stops ruts forming. Your installer should check ground conditions before confirming the depth.
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