
Without edging, gravel spreads into lawns and borders, the sub-base slumps at the sides and the drive loses its shape. Good edging is set on and haunched with concrete so car wheels running along it do not push it over. It should sit slightly above the finished gravel level, typically by around 10mm to 20mm, so it actually holds the stone back, while staying low enough not to be a trip hazard.
The choice of edging is mostly about looks, budget and how much load it takes. Block and brick suit most homes and match paving; concrete kerbs are the toughest option where wheels run along the edge; steel gives a crisp modern line and works well on curves; and treated timber suits rural and cottage settings but has a shorter life than masonry or metal.
What is included
- Setting out of straight and curved edge lines
- Trench excavation for the edging bed
- Concrete bed and haunching to hold each unit in place
- Block, brick, kerb, steel or timber edging set to line and level
- Edging at thresholds, path junctions and the pavement boundary
- Neat cuts and corners around gateposts, steps and ironworks
Who it is for
- New gravel drives that need a firm perimeter
- Existing drives where gravel spills into lawns and beds
- Drives that meet a pavement and need a neat threshold
- Curved or sweeping drives that need flexible steel edging
- Owners wanting a contrasting border in block or brick
How much does it cost?
As a guide, gravel drive edging in the UK usually costs from around £20 per metre for timber, roughly £35 to £80 per metre for block, brick or concrete kerb, and up to around £120 per metre for premium steel or natural stone. See our full cost guide.
